It’s chenin blanc, a French grape now finding its voice in South Africa, a few heritage vineyards in California and a smattering of vineyards in the eastern United States. Chenin is an enigmatic ...

There’s his Cresci Chenin Blanc ($30), from the Palermo Family Vineyard in Lodi, which smells like jasmine and ginger. He also made a sweet version of the Cresci, labeled Moelleux ($30), which ...

This 100% Chenin from Minus Tide, made from old-vine grapes, offers a tinge of honey on the nose with wild and savory herbs in the undertow. On the palate, there’s present salin ...